Why Children Should Eat What We Eat

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  Whenever I’m asked to edit books on cooking for children, I feel vaguely uncomfortable with the idea. It strikes me as one of those artificial constraints – organic cookbooks being another example. Why on earth should organic food need cooking differently from any other kind of food? And...

The Soup Run

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  ‘The homeless are what you step over when you come out of the opera,’ said a Tory baronet in the early 1990s. Are they really? The beauty of this belief, for those who subscribe to it, is that it removes all traces of humanity from the homeless. They...

Buying Cookery Books

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It’s over twenty years since I started editing cookery books and in that time quite a few have passed through my hands. I’ve seen the birth of the TV tie-in, professional cookery writers supplanted by celebrities and chefs, and photos take over from text. Cookery books used to fill...

Why Can’t We All Stop Talking About Food?

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We have a pretty messed-up attitude to food in this country. Why else would we be so obsessed with it? I love food, I really do, but I’m sick to death of hearing about it. Most of all, I am sick of recipes. There is no doubt that there...

I Have Measured Out My Life With Macaroons

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I sometimes think almost any food would be easier to make for a living than macaroons. That’s probably as much to do with my own shortcomings as the intrinsic difficulty of macaroon making, but there’s no denying they represent a kind of nemesis for many keen bakers. Even though...

Now Served at Society Café, Bath

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Let Them Eat Cake

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At times I worry that making cake for a living is not exactly contributing much to society. I hate social injustice and have forthright political views about it. Mischievous friends sometimes claim there’s a contradiction between these views and my career choice, not to mention the amount of time...

Macaroon Mania

It turns out orders for macaroon towers are like buses – you wait for ages and then two come along at once. Which is how I found myself assembling one at Babington House for a wedding a couple of weeks ago, then belting along country roads to the Holburne...